Tête-à-tête Blocks by @surfseasew

March was my mum’s birthday month and she would plant lots of the miniature Tête-à-tête narcissus in pots to brighten up her doorstep so this was the inspiration for my block design.

I have designed Two 6 ½” x 6 ½“ square Tête-à-tête blocks: A beginners’ version and one a bit more advanced so take your pick or do both – I hope you enjoy sewing the block and it’ll be fab to see all your sweet flowers.

First things first

As the pattern involves sewing together small pieces of fabric I shorten the stich length on my sewing machine to around 2. I also use a scant ¼” seam allowance. To check the accuracy of your seam width sew a test piece of spare fabric using either a ¼” foot, if your machine comes with one, or a normal foot, and once sewn measure your seam allowance with a ruler.  You may need to adjust your needle position to get an accurate ¼” seam 

On my Janome the ¼” needle position is set at 8.3 but I tend to move it to about 8.9 – If you don’t have a ¼” foot don’t worry as you can adjust your needle position and use the edge of your standard foot as a guide or use some tape to mark on your needle plate or use a magnetic guide

Beginners’ Block

Cut out your required pieces – I have used scraps of Green and Yellow fabrics but any colours with a good contrast will work well – just have fun with your scraps – Try and use similar shades to differentiate between the stalks and the flower petals with a mix of light, medium and dark fabric.

Marking and Sewing

You can mark your sewing line on the squares by either folding and creasing with a roller or using a Hera marker or pencil

On the reverse of the (6) 2”x2” flower petal squares
mark, crease or draw a diagonal line from corner to corner across the square

With RIGHT sides together and following the diagram place (4) of the marked squares lining up with the top edge of:

(2) 5”x 2” rectangles

(2) 3 ½ ” x 2” rectangles

The marked diagonal line should run from bottom LEFT corner to the top RIGHT corner

Also, place the remaining (2) flower petal
squares with (2) of the 2”x2” Green Stem squares

Either pin or clip the fabric pieces RIGHT sides together to stop them slipping whilst you sew on these lines – I usually chain sew pieces and start sewing using a small scrap of offcut fabric so that the thread doesn’t catch or bunch-up under the needle.

Join the pieces by sewing directly on the marked diagonal line.

Trimming

Using an ‘Add a Quarter’ ruler or other measuring ruler place it so the ¼ “ line is directly on top of the sewn line of stitching and the edge of the ruler is ¼ “ away then trim the excess with a rotary cutter as in the diagrams 

Press open the seams on all 6 pieces of fabric and lay out all your sewn pieces together with the (1) remaining unsewn 3 ½ “ x 2” rectangle and the (2) unsewn 2” x 2” squares.

Following the diagram sew the pieces RIGHT sides together using a scant ¼ “ seam as shown to get (4) 6½ “ x 2” strips

 And Voila – hopefully you will have your completed block

Intermediate Block

This block is very similar in design to that of the Beginner block but uses narrower pieces of fabric and although it looks complicated the piecing follows the same steps with an additional initial step of joining fabric strips to make the ‘stem’ pieces.

Cutting Out

*Read through before cutting out* as you may want to chain piece long 1” strips together from your stash beforehand and then cut to the smaller sizes

From your stash you will need the following pieces for your stalks

(4) 5 ½ “ x 1”

(4) 4 ½ “ x 1”

(6) 3 ½ “ x 1”

(4) 2 ½ “ x 1”

(4) 1 ½ “ x 1”

(3) 1 ½ “ x 1 ½ “

And the following contrasting coloured pieces for your petals

(9) 1 ½ “ x 1 ½ “

Marking and Sewing

With a scant ¼ “ seam sew together the matching lengths of 1” wide strips in pairs so you get:

(2)  5 ½ “ x 1 ½ ”

(2)  4 ½ “ x 1 ½ ”

(3)  3 ½ “ x 1 ½ ”

(2)  2 ½ “ x 1 ½ ”

(2)  1 ½ “ x 1 ½ ”

Press seams to one side

Follow the beginners’ pattern by marking a diagonal line across the reverse of all the (9) 1 ½ “ x 1 ½ “ petal
squares.

In the same way as with the beginners’ pattern place (6) of the petal squares Right sides together across the
top width edge of:

(2) of the 5 ½ “ x 1 ½ ” rectangles

(2) of the 4 ½ “ x 1 ½ ” rectangles

(2) of the 3 ½ “ x 1 ½ ” rectangles

And the remaining (3) petal squares Right sides together with the (3)  1 ½ “ x 1 ½ “ stalk squares

The marked diagonal line should run from bottom LEFT corner to the top RIGHT corner

Sew directly on the marked line of all (9) pieces

As described in the beginners’ pattern measure

the ¼ “ seam and trim off of the excess  

Press seams open

Following the design and with Right sides together continue to join the strips together in rows and then the
rows together using the same scant ¼ “ seam allowance pressing your seams open as you go to reduce bulk with such small fabric pieces

And can you believe that’s the end of the blocks for our 10 week sewalong. Come back next week for the instructions for the sewalong bucket bag or use any bag pattern to showcase your lovely blocks.

Visit our designers on Instagram to see their versions of this block : @cotefleurie @getahashtagkim @JustSewSue @lisasew @metroquilter @picosailors @pippaspatch @quirkyhannah  @surfseasew @therunninghare

Foundation Paper Pieced Log Cabin by @Lisasew

This week it’s the lovely Lisa and her beginner friendly FPP Log Cabin block… I’ll leave you in her capable hands to explain! You can download the pattern here!

I’ll cover the basics of the foundation paper piecing (FPP) technique. I find this works really well when using very small pieces to give a really accurate finish.

This block is a great way to start FPP, so whether this is your first time at FPP, you will hopefully find this an easy introduction to it, or if you are a bit more experienced you will know that this will give you a nice crisp block.

What you will need:

 1.25” minimum square (centre piece)

A variety of fabric strips a minimum of 1.5” wide, and up to 4.5” long*

Printed template

Thread

A light box can be helpful (I don’t use one most of the time)

Pre sewing instructions:

Print out your template, make sure you print at 100%. Print on the cheapest printer paper you have as the thinner it is the easier it is to rip out at the end.

Reduce your stitch length, I usually use about 1.5. The stitches need to be small to  secure as you rip out the papers at the end. They act like a perforation in the paper.

When you are sewing, the template will be facing upwards so you can see the image and the fabrics will be underneath.

Here you can see a pink & blue combination as an example.

Begin Sewing:

Take piece one and place it so that it covers the block A1 on the reverse side of the template. The piece will lay with the wrong side on the paper and the right side facing out. Make sure that you have a seam allowance covering all the lines around A1. I secure this with a pin running along the line between A1 & A2.

Flip over the template and then with fabrics RST (right sides together), place A2 so raw edges cover seam allowance over A1/A2. Here I readjust my pin from the pattern side to secure A2 to A1.

If you pin along the line you will be sewing then you can flip A2 to double check it will cover the area it is meant to, including the overhang to seam allowances.

Sew along the line. I like to start a bit before the actual line and carry on beyond. If you do this there is no need to lock the stitches here as the next round of pieces will secure these pieces.

Before I do any trimming I press the piece open and hold to the light again to double check it has covered the right space. (When doing trickier angles than we have here it is easy to misjudge the angle and find it needs moving).

When I’m happy it is correct, I fold A2 back to its sewing position to trim the seam allowance of A1 & A2. Normally I would trim back to ¼” but as this is quite small I would go just a little narrower than that, to avoid bulk. Then replace A 2 back to its pressed position.

Piece A1 is the only piece we place facing out, all the remaining pieces are now added in number order in just the same way we added A2.

Take A3, and place RST over the line covering A1/A3 and Pin from the pattern side. Again flip over the fabric to double check it is going to cover the area A3, then if happy, sew along the line. Press, check and trim seam allowance.

Continue until the block is complete.

I trim the block down making sure the final block measures 4 ½” and I would normally leave the papers in until I am ready to attach to the next block. If you find the block is an eighth of an inch smaller than 4 1/2 “ just square it up as you will have enough excess fabric on this final round.

Watch my stories on Instagram as I will have some more pictures on the pattern release and maybe a video if I dare! Good Luck, and thanks for joining us sewing along. Lisa

Wonky Cross Block by @therunninghare

This block may be simple but it is extremely versatile.

Firstly, it can be any size, and need not be square although square and  rectangular blocks are the most common. It can be made as a plus (+) or a cross (x) and the strips can be thick or thin and multicoloured in a variety of ways.

To make the block:

1. Cut a square slightly larger than the size of your unfinished block (as our blocks are 2,4 or 6 inches finished then that would be 2.75, 4.75 or 6.75 inches)

2. Make a cut using a ruler and rotary cutter in one direction on your square. 

3.  Insert and sew a strip of contrasting fabric between the 2 halves of your square. Press to the inserted strip.

4. The strips can be any width but smaller than ¾ inch isharder to sew  and wider strips ( more than 1.5 inches) are only suitable for bigger blocks. A good size to cut is 1.25 inches for these smaller blocks. Strips can also be tapered so that they are thinner at one end to give a different look

5. Make a cut in the opposite direction and insert another strip of fabric between the 2 halves. Depending on your preference, you can line the cross strip up on the two halves exactly or leave it not matching to give a slightly staggered effect.

Press to the inserted strip.

6. Trim your block to size.

#scrapbagsampler

‘Pop Goes the Weasel’ – @picosailors

Pin your concave block to your convex block at your starting point. Sew together easing the block round

without stretching. Keep the concave block on the top.

(Don’t worry if they don’t quite meet at the end as you have plenty of wiggle room when you trim)

Make all four blocks and then trim to 2 ½ ” square.

(Make sure when you trim that you have at least a quarter of an inch at the end of the outer fabric and they are all trimmed the same so they match up).

Sew your blocks together in pairs then into four, carefully matching all your seams.

Trim your block to 4 ½”

I’m not an improv quilter and I really like following a pattern but when my scraps build up I make scrappy improv shapes and I’ve been known to make them into Valentine’s cards or quilt blocks. Stars/Trees/Easter Egg’s the principle would be exactly the same.

Put two fabrics right sides together, you can make them wonky or straight depending on  your mood. Sew a 1/4” seam allowance ideally in matching thread.Trim any extra fabric in line with the seam, open then press. 

For some added fun, you can join small scraps together in the same manner and join it to the main fabric.

Continue in this way until you have a fabric piece the size of the heart you want.  For the 6” block I think a 5” heart works well.

I like to use fusible webbing/interfacing for my applique. You can either freehand draw a heart or use a template, if you have a sizzix or a die cutter they make great templates just cut them in cardstock.Draw the shape onto the non shiny side (the non glue side) of the interfacing.

Use a light box or hold the heart up to a light source, lamp or window and just check that the scrappy fabric has a 1/4” allowance around the drawn heart.

Sew directly on the drawn line, I use a 2mm stitch and I start on a straighter side and always backstitch at the beginning and the end. Cut around the heart leaving a 1/4” seam allowance, clip into the corners and the V do not cut through the stitching. Carefully lift up the interfacing and slit a cut into it so that you can turn the heart right side out. Turn and carefully push corners and curves out. DO NOT IRON

On the little block I used some 12wt Aurifil and stitched a rough 1/8” topstitch inside the heart. This one is a longer “country style” heart and was freehand drawn. The large heart I used a blanket stitch and then lots of different embroidery stitches on my machine using Aurifil 50wt.

This week is all about fussy cutting and with this hexagon block designed by @cotefleurie

Now who doesn’t love a hexie?

Materials:

• 7 x 3 inch background fabric
• Assorted scraps for hexagons
• Template plastic
• Water based glue stick

Make a plastic template of the ¾ inch hexagon shape. Note that the template does not include seam allowances. Free hexagon templates are available to download from www.moxyideas.com

Choose your fabric for the hexagons. If you wish to fussy cut your fabric, choose the motif or pattern you wish to highlight and place the template accordingly on the WS of the fabric. Draw round the template and then cut out the hexagon, being careful to add ¼ inch seam allowance all the way around.

Decide on the layout of your hexagons and join them into a row of four. This can either be via whipstitch or a flat back stitch as shown by Karen at www.thediyaddict.com

Try not to sew through the papers as this will make it more difficult to remove them.

Now who does not love a good half square triangle (HST). The very first quilt I did was full of these and is still in used being loved by the not so little girl today.

Amanda has a lovely tutorial below for those who are dipping their toe in!

Those who follow @metroquilter on Instagram knows she loves half square triangles. Some comments on the various methods

I’ve tried lots of methods over the years but the method I prefer is to chain piece my triangles and then trim to size. Other methods include a) foundation paper pieced -which I find accurate but fiddly b) piecing to size without trimming – never worked for me! c) 4 in 1 – lots of bias edges and still have to trim.

Today we are going to make four 2.5inch half square triangles, with the final piece being 4.5inch square.

Requirements 

4 x 3″ squares from your scraps

Step four: 

Press each of the seams to the dark side. You will now have four half square triangles ready for trimming.         

Step 5: 

With your ruler align the 45 degree line with the diagonal of the block. Ensure that a 2.5 inch square can be made and trim the first two sides of the block.

Step 6: Turn the block 180 degrees and again with

Turn the block 180 degrees and again with your ruler align the 45 degree line with the diagonal of the block. Keep the ruler square with the two sides you have already trimmed, and trim the remaining two sides to make a 2.5 inch square.    

Step 7: 

Arrange your four trimmed blocks as desired into a square arrangement.                     

Step 8: 

Sew the top two blocks together and the bottom two blocks together using a quarter inch seam. Press the top and bottom set in the opposite directions. Place the two sets of two blocks right side together, nesting the seam. Sew together using a quarter inch seam.    

Step 9: 

Press the seams and you’re finished. Thefinished block will be 4.5 inch square.